Slow braise for tough cuts

Shoulders, shanks, neck roasts, and trim from a deer have plenty of connective tissue. Fast cooking makes them tough, but a long, gentle braise converts that collagen into tender, silky meat. This recipe is a basic method that works for venison and, with small changes, for older ducks or geese. It serves 6 and mostly cooks itself, with about 3 hours in the oven.

Yield: 6 servings | Prep: 25 minutes | Cook: 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours

Ingredients

• 3 pounds venison shoulder, neck, or shank meat, trimmed of silver skin and large fat, cut into 2-inch chunks (or left as a roast)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 cup flour (optional, for dusting)
• 3 tablespoons oil, such as canola
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 2 carrots, cut into chunks
• 2 celery ribs, cut into chunks
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 cup dry red wine (optional; replace with stock)
• 2 to 3 cups beef or venison stock, enough to come about two-thirds up the meat
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar or balsamic vinegar, to finish

Method

1. Heat the oven to 300°F, with a rack in the lower third.
2. Dry and season. Pat the meat dry. Season with salt and pepper. Dust with flour if using, and shake off the excess.
3. Brown in batches. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or heavy ovenproof pot over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in 2 to 3 batches without crowding, 3 to 4 minutes per side, until deeply browned. Move to a plate. Brown flavor is the base of the dish.
4. Cook the vegetables. Lower the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrots, and celery with a pinch of salt and cook 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook 1 minute more.
5. Deglaze. Add the wine, if using, and scrape the bottom. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes until reduced by half.
6. Combine. Return the meat and its juices. Add the stock, bay leaves, thyme, and Worcestershire. The liquid should come about two-thirds of the way up the meat. Bring to a simmer on the stovetop.
7. Braise. Cover tightly and place in the oven. Cook for 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours, checking at 2 hours. Turn the meat once during cooking.
8. Test for doneness. The meat is ready when a fork slides in with little resistance and the meat is nearly falling apart. A thermometer reading of around 195 to 205°F often matches this tenderness in tough cuts. If it is not tender, return it to the oven for another 30 minutes.
9. Finish. Remove the meat and herb stems. Skim fat from the liquid. Simmer the sauce on the stovetop 5 to 10 minutes until it thickens. Stir in the vinegar and adjust salt.
10. Rest the meat for 10 minutes in the sauce before serving.

Food safety

• Venison should reach at least 160°F in the braise, and a long braise easily exceeds this.
• Keep the meat refrigerated until cooking. Thaw in the refrigerator.
• Cool leftovers quickly by dividing into shallow containers. Refrigerate within two hours.
• Good field handling and fast cooling make a big difference to flavor. See field care after the shot.

Tips

• Low and slow beats hot and fast. If the meat is still tough, it usually needs more time, not a higher temperature.
• Do not boil. The surface of the liquid should barely tremble.
• Do not skip browning. It makes the sauce deeper in flavor.
• Make it ahead. Braises are often better the next day. Refrigerate overnight, skim the solidified fat, and reheat gently.
• Use a heavy lid. If it fits loosely, cover with foil first.

Variations

• Slow cooker: brown the meat and vegetables on the stove, then cook on low for 8 to 10 hours or on high for 4 to 5 hours.
• Instant Pot: brown with the sauté function, then pressure cook on high for 45 to 60 minutes with natural release.
• Stew: add 1 1/2 pounds of cubed potatoes and extra carrots for the last hour.
• Pot roast: use a whole shoulder roast and add 30 to 60 minutes.
• Birds: for older ducks or geese, braise legs and breast pieces for 2 to 2 1/2 hours.
• Hungarian style: add 2 tablespoons paprika and a cup of sour cream at the end.

Storage

• Refrigerate up to 3 to 4 days in the cooking liquid.
• Freeze in portions with sauce for up to about 3 to 4 months for best quality.
• Reheat in a covered pot over low heat until simmering. Warm to 165°F.

Serving

Serve over mashed potatoes, egg noodles, polenta, or rice, with a green vegetable. Leftover meat makes good sandwiches, tacos, or pasta sauce. A pot of braise also cooks down well for venison chili.

FAQ

Why is my braised venison still tough?

It is probably undercooked. Give it more time at low heat.

Can I use frozen meat?

Thaw it first for even browning.

Do I need the wine?

No. Extra stock with a splash of vinegar works.

Rudy hunts and fishes in southwest Wisconsin and has for 35+ years.