Venison backstrap hot and fast

Backstrap, the loin that runs along each side of the spine, is among the most tender cuts on a deer. It is also very lean, so it goes from perfect to dry in a minute or two. The method here is simple: dry the meat, sear it in a hot pan, finish gently if needed, and rest. This serves 2 to 3 people, and the whole thing takes about 30 minutes plus time for salting.

Yield: 2 to 3 servings | Prep: 15 minutes (plus salting) | Cook: 10 to 15 minutes

Ingredients

• 1 to 1 1/2 pounds venison backstrap, in one piece or cut into 4 thick medallions
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 to 2 tablespoons high smoke point oil, such as avocado or canola
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 3 cloves garlic, smashed
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)

Optional pan sauce:

• 1/2 cup beef or venison stock
• 2 tablespoons red wine or balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon cold butter
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Preparation

1. Trim. Remove all silver skin, the shiny white membrane on the surface. It does not break down in cooking and makes the meat chewy. Slide a thin, sharp knife under it and angle the blade upward as you pull.
2. Salt ahead. Salt the meat 30 to 45 minutes before cooking, and leave it uncovered in the refrigerator. If you are short on time, salt right before cooking.
3. Bring to a cool room temperature. Take the meat out of the refrigerator 15 to 20 minutes before cooking. Pat completely dry with paper towels. Dry meat browns, while wet meat steams.
4. Pepper just before the pan.

Cooking

1. Heat the skillet. Use cast iron or heavy stainless steel over medium-high to high heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the oil. It should shimmer.
2. Sear. Lay the backstrap in the pan, away from you. Sear without moving it for 2 to 3 minutes, until a deep brown crust forms. Turn and sear the other sides for 1 to 2 minutes each. Medallions about 1 inch thick generally take 2 to 3 minutes per side.
3. Baste. Lower the heat to medium. Add the butter, garlic, and herbs. Tilt the pan and spoon the foaming butter over the meat for 1 minute.
4. Check the temperature. For a thicker whole piece that needs more time, finish in a 400°F oven for 3 to 6 minutes. Use an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part.
5. Pull early. Remove the meat at 125 to 130°F for medium-rare. The temperature will rise 5 degrees or so as it rests.
6. Rest. Place on a cutting board, tent loosely with foil, and rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
7. Slice across the grain into 1/2-inch slices.

Pan sauce (optional)

Pour off most of the fat but keep the browned bits. Over medium heat, add the wine or vinegar and scrape the pan. Add the stock and simmer 3 to 4 minutes until slightly reduced. Whisk in the mustard and cold butter. Season with salt and pepper, and spoon over the sliced meat.

Doneness and food safety

The USDA recommends cooking whole cuts of meat to 145°F, followed by a 3-minute rest. Many cooks prefer venison backstrap cooked to medium-rare, around 130 to 135°F after resting, because the lean meat dries quickly past that point. If you prefer to follow the USDA guidance, cook to 145°F and rest, and consider the tradeoff in tenderness. Pregnant women, young children, older adults, and anyone with a weakened immune system are best off following the 145°F guidance.

Other safety points:

• Whole muscles such as backstrap are handled differently from ground meat, which should reach 160°F.
• Keep raw and cooked meat separate and wash utensils.
• Refrigerate leftovers within two hours.
• Good field care and fast cooling give better flavor and safety. See field care after the shot.

Variations

• Peppercorn crust: press crushed peppercorns into the meat before searing.
• Bacon-wrapped medallions: wrap in bacon and secure with toothpicks, then sear on all sides, and finish in a 375°F oven.
• Mushroom sauce: cook sliced mushrooms in the pan after removing the meat, then deglaze.
• Grill: oil the meat, grill over high heat 3 to 4 minutes per side for 1-inch medallions, and rest.
• Sliced thin: serve cold over a salad.

Storage

• Leftover cooked backstrap keeps 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
• Reheat gently in a skillet over low heat or eat it cold to avoid overcooking.
• Raw backstrap freezes well. Vacuum seal or wrap tightly in freezer paper, then foil or a freezer bag, and label with the date. Use within about a year for best quality.

Serving

Pair with roasted potatoes, green beans, or wild rice. Slice and serve on toast with horseradish sauce. Leftovers make great sandwiches.

FAQ

Why is my backstrap tough?

Typically it is overcooked or has silver skin left on. Use a thermometer and trim well.

Should I marinate?

It isn’t necessary. A simple salt, pepper, and butter treatment lets the flavor show.

Can I use other cuts this way?

Tenderloins work well. For tougher cuts, see slow braise for tough cuts.

Rudy hunts and fishes in southwest Wisconsin and has for 35+ years.